Hot topics classes for UConn Certified Master Gardeners are offered annually in each Extension office and at the Bartlett Arboretum.  Attendance at one of these classes is a requirement to maintain active certification for Master Gardeners.  Hot topics classes are designed to provide Master Gardeners with updated horticultural and environmental information. They build upon the programs class topics and help keep Master Gardeners informed and current. There is no charge to certified master gardeners to attend the three hour class and for those working towards advanced certification status 3 credit hours are given.

 Classes this year feature information and management techniques summarized by Plant Pathologist Joan Allen on pathogens new to Connecticut including:

Impatiens Downy Mildew, (Plasmopora obducens) and Boxwood Blight (Cylindrocladium pseudonaviculatum).  A fascinating review of some wonderful beneficial insects was put created by MG coordinator Deb Prior and featured beautiful, original photos of these creatures taken by MG Turf instructor and caterpillar enthusiast Pamm Cooper.  Sarah Bailey, MG coordinator from the Hartford office produced a comprehensive review of Pesticide Safety, an important topic with information that is constantly changing and always challenging. Sarah’s presentation included a list of reference materials as well as web-based resources for pesticide information and biological controls.

PREDATORY STINK BUG NYMPH          PHOTO- Pamm Cooper

In addition to the presentation the classes also offer a review of diagnostic techniques.

The power point presentations will be available to Master Gardeners when the classes have concluded on the Master Gardener Web site: http://www.uconnmastergardeners.com/

For information on upcoming Hot Topics Classes and how to register see http://www.ladybug.uconn.edu/

Leslie Alexander

Mock Orange, Photo by Pamm Cooper

My favorite flowering shrub is mock orange. Its botanical name is Philadelphus coronarius, with several species and hybrids.  Its scent is sweet and enticing, and fills the air on a humid day. It reminds me of hot, childhood summers running through the lawn edged in a hedge of mock orange. A multi-stemmed shrub that can be pruned to keep it in bounds, or shaped for a more formal design. Some species are about ten feet tall while others have been tamed with breeding to be dwarfed. All have a wonderful clean, white flowers with four petals and yellow stamens, blooming late May to early June.  The bark is exfoliating, turning a reddish-brown in winter providing interest once the leaves drop.

Philadelphus coronarius, Pamm Cooper photo.

Philadelphus coronarius bark. Photo by Pamm Cooper

The older, single flowered varieties are more fragrant than the new crosses and hybrids. A favorite dwarf of mine is ‘Miniature Snowflake’ that combines both a dense habit, shorter four-foot height and very good fragrance. The white flowers are double and foliage a dark green.

Philadelphus × virginalis ‘Miniature Snowflake’ oregonstate.edu

All species do well in full sun or light shade. They are pH and soil adaptable, but like moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. All respond well to pruning by producing new growth with lots of flowers. Mock oranges are not bothered by any pests severely, tolerating the common aphid invasions and once in a while, leaf miners. Basically, reliable old-fashioned shrub with great scent.

-Carol Quish

Male and female gray tree frogs. JAllen photo.

To my delight, I came upon this pair of gray tree frogs (Hyla versicolor) on the sidewalk at a convenience store one morning this May.   I nearly missed seeing them and was VERY glad I did or I would have stepped on them!  Gray tree frogs have the ability to camouflage themselves, changing color to blend into their background as much as possible.  On the gray sidewalk, the female, larger frog on the bottom had changed to a palette of gray and black tones as you can see in the photo.   The smaller male on top has retained more green coloration.   The species name of this beautiful frog, ‘versicolor’, comes from its ability to change coloration.

Finding this charming pair made me interested in learning more about their biology and habits.  Nocturnal for the most part, these two probably got caught out in the open by mistake, after leaving their usual tree-top environment for mating.  After finding them on the sidewalk, I moved them off to a moist, shady area in the grass, closer to the trees nearby.  I didn’t want them to get stepped on or fried by the sun when it reached their resting spot.

The gray tree frog is native to much of the eastern United States and parts of southern Canada.  It is not found in southern Florida or in most of Maine.  Look for them in forested areas that are near water or that contain either seasonal or permanent bodies of water.  They leave the trees for mating, which is most active in spring but extends into August, so this is the best time to see them.  Gray tree frogs mature and begin to mate at the age of 3 years.  Females lay as many as 1800 to 2000 eggs on the surface of shallow water.  Bundles of 10-40 eggs are attached to vegetation.  Tadpoles hatch in 4-5 days and metamorphose into little green frogs after about 2-2 ½ months.  As the little frogs grow, their color changes from bright green to various shades of green and gray, usually mottled.  Adult frogs have rough, bumpy skin.

Gray tree frog tadpole (Univ. of RI photo)

Females are larger than males and have a lighter colored ‘chin’. The male chin is darker because they have sacs in their throats for calling during mating season. Females do not have a call. Listen to the call of the gray tree frog! The inner thigh is bright yellow-orange and is visible during jumping. This can confuse predators and hopefully deter them! There is also sometimes a dark-edged light spot just below their eyes. Adult frogs are 1 ¼” to 2 3/8” long at maturity.

Newly metamorphosed gray tree frog. Univ. of RI photo.

Gray tree frogs can survive cold temperatures as low as -8° C (17.6° F) and overwinter under logs or debris on the forest floor.  In addition to moving to a protected, insulated place, they keep some of their blood from freezing by producing ‘antifreeze’ in the form of glycerol.  About 40% of their bodies and fluids can freeze without harmful effects.

While gray tree frogs are not considered an endangered species, frog and toad numbers are steadily declining in many areas due to pollution and habitat loss.  It is important to monitor their populations and work to preserve their habitats. In Connecticut, the decline of the gray tree frog was noted as early as 1937.  A main reason for this is the loss of shrubby swamps which is their preferred breeding habitat. When land is developed for residential or commercial use, there is a legal requirement not to lose wetland acreage, but often the desirable shrub swamp habitat is either drained or converted to ponds and small lakes in this process.  These new wetlands often contain fewer species of amphibians and reptiles that are hardy enough to adapt to the new environment.

J Allen

While finishing planting of the vegetable garden has been momentarily put on hold, that actually gave me a bit of time to observe and absorb what is happening in my flower beds and this weekend, irises are beginning to strut their stuff. I think I fell in love with irises when I was about 4 years old and visiting by grandmother in Buffalo. She had the most amazing purple iris in her garden that that smelled just like grape Kool-Aid. Although that was more than a half century ago, I have always planted or nurtured irises everywhere I have lived.

I am not alone in my iris obsession! Irises have played a prominent part in lore, legend and religion for over four thousand years. According to the ancient Greeks, they were the personification of the goddess, Iris, who was the messenger of the gods and the rainbow which linked earth to other worlds. Iris would escort souls to another life along her iridescent bridge. Iris flowers were placed on the tombs of women and later Muslims planted white irises on the graves of fallen soldiers.

Of the 200 plus species, those most commonly grown in New England gardens are the tall bearded, Siberian, Japanese, netted and crested irises. I have had reasonable success with the bulbous Dutch iris and I. bucharica, native to Afghanistan, as well.

Iris blossoms vary greatly in shape, color and size but their overall structure is similar. Each flower consists of three upper petals called standards and three lower or outer sepals referred to as falls. Irises are divided into two major groups; those arising from rhizomes, which are horizontal stems growing at or slightly below the soil surface, and those growing from bulbs.

Birdhouse garden w old irises

Some gardeners lament the relatively brief annual flowering period of irises. And it is true that even in good years weather-wise you cannot expect more than two or three weeks of a spectacular show. These folks can be comforted to some extent by choosing early, mid-season and late species and varieties of irises so the blooming period is prolonged. I like to think about it more like a special holiday one looks forward to each year. It just wouldn’t be appreciated as much if it occurred more often. And irises are just too magnificent to be taken for granted.

Taller irises make a nice backdrop for lower growing perennials. Shorter species, like the miniature bearded iris, or the crested iris (Iris cristata) look best planted in drifts in the front of the garden.

As far as the tall bearded irises go, your color choice is virtually unlimited. Lovelier shades become available each year. Also known as, German bearded irises, they prefer a sunny, well-drained site with adequate moisture. They reach two to three feet in height (although the stand at our local bank is at least 4 feet tall!) and come into bloom from mid-May through early June.

Iris ‘Cinnamon Girl’

Siberian irises bloom slightly later than the bearded irises. They also grow from rhizomes but the rhizomes are quite small and they readily form a fibrous root system. Colors of Siberian irises are somewhat limited compared to their bearded cousins. They range from white to blue, purple, violet and wine red. Their foliage is slender, almost grass-like.

Japanese irises flower in early to mid-summer and can grow up to four feet tall. A fallacy concerning Japanese irises is that they need wet conditions to do well. In truth, they will grow in almost any well-drained, organic, slightly acidic soil as long as adequate moisture is supplied.

Japanese Iris in White Garden

Another fallacy is that irises should not be fertilized. Mine seem quite appreciative of nutrients both during early spring growth and about a month after flowering. The bearded irises go into a resting stage after they bloom which lasts about a month. Then they begin to produce new roots and leaf buds. Each rhizome only produced flowers once and then it retires to function solely as a food reservoir.

Division of bearded irises is best done in late summer. Use a sharp knife to divide the rhizomes making sure each mature rhizome has one or more new leaf buds attached. Fans of leaves should be pointing in the direction you want the plants to grow. I generally cut back the leaves to six inches or so when dividing to make handling the plants easier. Position the plants so the top of the rhizomes are at or slightly below the soil surface.

While Siberian and Japanese irises are rarely bothered by pests, iris borers can be a problem with the bearded iris. Larvae hatching from eggs laid the previous fall will feed on leaves then burrow into the rhizome creating wounds that can then be colonized by bacterial rot. Infected rhizomes will be mushy and foul smelling. Control consists of removal of dead leaves in the fall or early spring. If borer damage is noticed, usually because of zigzag feeding injury on leaves, dig up the clump, find the larvae and dispose of them. It is a good idea to dig and divide bearded irises at least every third year to scout for these pests.

Blue Siberian Irises

Few perennials are as hardy as irises and provide you with a rainbow of color in late spring and early summer.

Happy Gardening to You!

Dawn

reflections in a vernal pool showing spotted salamander eggs left, wood frog eggs top, and spotted salamander larva to the right. April 10, 2013 Photo Pamm Cooper

Vernal pools are seasonally fresh- water flooded depressions, usually filling with water in the spring as water tables rise in the spring. Although some depressions are filled in the fall, and may be referred to as “ autumnal pools “, the vernal pool in Connecticut contains water for about two months during the growing season. It typically has no outlet stream, and no fish populations are found in them. Most years, vernal pools dry out completely by late summer.

Vernal pools are rich breeding areas for many amphibians. Some of these amphibians need to complete at least part of their life cycle in the pools before reaching adulthood. Look for eggs of the various amphibians that will be born there starting in late March through early April. Among them are wood frogs, spotted salamanders, marbled salamanders and gray tree frogs, and to some extent spring peepers, American toads and red-spotted newts.

Spotted salamanders and wood frogs lay their eggs in vernal pools in the spring, and the nymphs need time to develop into air- breathing amphibians before the pools dry up. A droughty spring can mean disaster if the early stages of the amphibians still have gills and the pool dries up. This spring started off droughty, but recent rains may have helped prolong the length of water retention in Connecticut pools.

If you are adventurous, spend some time looking under logs and leaves in areas surrounding vernal pools, even after the pools have dried up. You may be rewarded with some good finds. On one recent log rolling venture, my sister and I uncovered many red- backed salamanders. The day after a rain you may find red- spotted newt efts and box turtles, especially near woodland vernal pools.

The red- spotted newt has a complicated life- cycle. It hatches from an egg laid in the spring under decaying leaves in a pond, then lives as a carnivorous larvae with a finned tail and gills, much like the spotted salamander. But the red-spot undergoes metamorphosis into an eft form later in the summer where it has lungs and lives outside the water for several years. Then it undergoes a second metamorphosis into its final adult form where it finishes its life in the water.

Eft stage of the red- spotted newt photo by Pamm Cooper may 13, 2013

Spotted salamanders on the other hand spend little of their time in the water. Eggs are laid in large clumps in vernal pools after adults migrate from burrows in the wood during winter rains. The aquatic form of this salamander can sometimes be mistaken for polliwogs by the casual observer. Their development into terrestrial forms depends upon the water temperature. The warmer it is, the faster these salamanders develop into the land- dwelling form. After they move to land, they are seldom seen as they are of a nocturnal habit, dwelling in hardwood forests and swamps. This salamander depends upon vernal pools or wetlands where no fish are found that would feed on the eggs and larvae.

Wood frogs are among the first breeding animals to arrive at the vernal pool. Listen for their loud quacking and shortly after look for their Wood frogs lay eggs prolifically in vernal pools. The egg masses of wood frogs are usually attached to vegetation near the surface of the water and may-cover the surface of the pool if wood frogs are in abundance. They can survive in pools that dry up by August as the tadpole stage typically is completed by mid- June to mid-July in Connecticut.

Egg string of the American Toad Picture taken April 20, 2013 by Pamm Cooper

There are many other things found in and around vernal pools that we can observe and appreciate. The next time you here incessant quacking in the woods in early spring, remember the wood frog. And think about all the drama about to unfold as the melting snow and rising water table provide the perfect environment for the unheralded amphibians of the woodlands.

Pamm Cooper

All pictures Copyrighted 2013 by Pamm Cooper

In 2006 the phenomenon of Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD), a sudden and widespread disappearance of adult honey bees from beehives was realized in the U.S. In 2007 a Federal Steering Committee was formed, charged with the task of coordinating a federal response to address this problem and to identify the main priorities for research to be conducted to characterize CCD and to develop measures to mitigate the problem.  Despite rigorous research efforts to understand this disorder, losses of hives in the United States continue to be high.

It is estimated that one-third of all pollination necessary for food production in this country is carried out mainly by honey bees. This crop production is worth $20-30 billion annually. This decline in managed bee colonies puts great pressure on the sectors of agriculture that rely on commercial pollination services. This is evident from reports of shortages of bees available for the pollination of many crops.

 In October 2012, the CCD Steering Committee convened a conference in Alexandria, Virginia that included beekeepers, scientists from industry/academia/government, and representatives of conservation groups, beekeeping supply manufacturers, commodity groups, pesticide manufacturers, and government representatives from the U.S., Canada, and Europe.

The goals of the conference were to identify current knowledge of CCD, facilitate development of Best Management Practices –BMPs for stakeholders and to identify priority topics for research, education and outreach.

Some of the research highlights include:

·       A complex set of stressors and pathogens is associated with CCD

·       The parasitic mite Varroa destructor remains the single most detrimental pest of honey bees, and is closely associated with overwintering colony declines.

 A Varroa mite is see on the lower part of the bee abdomen.

·       Multiple virus species have been associated with CCD.

·                      

A condition called ‘string wings’ that usually occurs with high levels of Varroa infestation

·       Nutrition has a major impact on individual and colony longevity. Beekeepers and researchers alike believe that land use patterns have changed to an extent where there is less forage available for honey bee colonies. Research is beginning to look at ways to diversify the agricultural landscape to increase resource availability for pollinators.

·       Acute and sub lethal effects of pesticides on honey bees have been increasingly documented, and are primary concerns.

·       The most pressing pesticide research questions lie in determining the actual field-relevant pesticide exposure bees receive and the effects of pervasive exposure to multiple pesticides on bee health and productivity of whole honey bee colonies.

The CCD Steering Committee plans to revise the CCD Action Plan, a document that will synthesize the information gathered at this conference. It will outline major priorities to be addressed in the next 5-10 years and will serve as a reference document for policy makers, legislators and the public and to help coordinate the federal strategy in response to honey bee losses.

To view the report, which represents the consensus of the scientific community studying honey bees, please visit: http://www.usda.gov/documents/ReportHoneyBeeHealth.pdf

Leslie Alexander

Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula’, photo by Pamm Cooper

Shadblow, Amelanchier May 2,2013 UConn campus P Cooper photo

Acer palmatum 5-2-13 II in flower Pamm Cooper photo

Hornbeam, Carpinus sp. in flower, 5-2-13 UConn P Cooper photo.jpg

The bark of Pseudocydonia sinensis is absolutely gorgeous in the spring sunshine.

Chinese Quince bark 5-2-13 UConn P. Cooper, photo

Boxelder Tree in Bloom, Acer negundo

Swamp Maple Flower, Acer rubrum, P. Cooper

Saucer Magnolia, Magnolia x soulangeana, P. Cooper photo

Happy spring now that it has finally sprung!

-Carol Quish

Adult green lacewing (Photo credit: Missouri Extension)

Female lacewings lay 100-200 eggs during their life span of about six weeks.  They tend to place the eggs where there are prey present for the young larvae to feed on.  Eggs may be found on the underside of leaves, singly or in clusters, and each egg is borne on a stalk, giving them a balloon-like appearance.

Green lacewing eggs (Photo: whatcom.wsu.com)

Eggs hatch 3-6 days later and the larvae are voracious predators, feeding on other insects including aphids, mealybugs, scales, psyllids, thrips, whiteflies, small caterpillars, leafhoppers and insect eggs.  They also feed on mites, particularly the red spider mite.   ‘Aphid lion’ is a common name sometimes used for the larva.   They have strong, hollow jaws used to inject a digestive saliva into the prey.  This saliva is able to digest the internal organs of an aphid in only 90 seconds!   The larva then sucks the juices from the preys’ body.  As many as 200 aphids or insect eggs may be consumed in only a week.  Debris including prey’s remains adheres to bristles on the larva’s back, helping to camouflage it from predators.  The larvae look a bit like tiny alligators with a flattened body that has mottled coloring made up of light yellowish brown to darker gray markings.  They have a tapered tail and visible legs.

Green lacewing larva piercing aphid (Photo: MJ Hatfield, Bugguide.net)

Larvae feed for two to three weeks and then pupate within a spherical cocoon attached to a plant or under loose bark.   Adults emerge in one to two weeks depending on temperature and humidity.  The green lacewing may overwinter in various life stages depending on weather severity.

Green lacewing cocoon (Photo: wiki.bugwood.org)

Green lacewings are available commercially for use as biological controls in the greenhouse, field and garden.   They are generally affordable and are available as eggs, larvae and adults.  If you are interested in establishing a population at the beginning of the season, eggs would be a good choice.  For an existing problem, larvae will arrive hungry and ready to go.  Adults can also be ordered and they are a good choice when treating a large area or if you don’t want to spend much time distributing eggs or larvae.

Some attractive characteristics of green lacewings as part of an integrated pest management (IPM) program include: 1. It’s broad range of prey (generalist), 2. It has excellent searching ability, 3. Some species are tolerant of insecticides, and 4. The adults will disperse readily.  One little downside is that the larvae will also eat some beneficial insects and can be cannibalistic too.   They will feed on the pests if that’s what is available!

You can attract natural populations of green lacewings to your garden by planting flowers that are attractive food sources for them.  Suggestions include members of the family Asteraceae such as Coreopsis, Cosmos, and sunflower and the family Apiaceae such as dill and angelica.  The common dandelion, milkweed, spotted joe-pye weed, Queen Anne’s lace, red clover, and bushy aster are other attractive plants for food and/or shelter.

J. Allen

Photo of Mourning Cloak basking in the sun to warm up. Photo by Pamm Cooper

One of the first butterflies seen in early spring in Connecticut is the Mourning Cloak butterfly. Nymphalis antiopa ( Linnaeus ) is one of the our most widespread butterfly species and is also one of the longest living as an adult. Any seen flying about in early spring spent the winter in a sheltered spot. On warm winter days with no snow cover I have seen one or two flying about in sunny, open woods.

This is a fairly large butterfly with a wingspan between 2 ½- 4 inches. The upper wings are a deep chocolate brown with a wide creamy yellow border along the outside margin. Just outside this border are a row of iridescent blue/ purple spots. The color of these spots can vary as the sun strikes them at different angles.

Males are very territorial, and they defend their area by chasing away, or at least attempting to do so, every perceived threat to it. I have actually had one land on my head, unaware of the fact until I heard a whirring sound and felt something lightly fluttering on my head. It was the male Mourning Cloak I had just seen flying up from the hiking trail just in front of me. It had doubled back and “ jumped” me from behind. It was actually pretty funny, especially since I could see the shadow of it drumming on my head. In such cases, it is often best to move on to another area for the sake of the butterfly.

The female lays her eggs in a cluster or ring on a twig or leaf. I have found newly hatched caterpillars in a large group still near the egg ring on a willow twig. Some of the larval host plants are native willows, Cottonwood, Hackberry, American Elm, poplar, and Gray birch. If you see a Mourning cloak landing on any of these host plants, check and see if perhaps it is a female looking for the correct plant on which to lay her eggs. The caterpillars are fairly easy to spot as they feed in groups, making a web as they go. Their bodies are black with tiny white spots, and they have diamond shaped red spots along their back. Their prologs are a matching red color, and they also have black spikes, which are harmless but fearsome- looking.

Mourning cloaks are found most often along woodland edges and watercourses, but I have found them on power lines also, especially where there are wetland areas with native willows. If you are hiking along a woodland trail, you may see take off just in front of you. If so, watch where it goes. It will often be a male who was perched or patrolling his territory, and many times it will return almost exactly to the same area. Even it seems to be flying quite a distance away, even deep into the woods, wait where you are, and you may be rewarded with a close- up view if you stand still, as it usually will return to its resting spot. You can have a little fun with this butterfly. I have held out my hand and had one actually land on it, checking me out to see if I was a threat. They may even try to obtain salts from your skin, as will other butterflies such as the Red Admiral.

obsessionwithbutterflies.com photo of chrysalis

Mourning Cloaks are attracted to sap flows, such as on cracks found on tree trunks, and also dung or rotting fruit. If there is a sap flow, they land above it and will walk down to it and then feed head downward. They will also obtain nectar from red maple and milkweed, but it is uncommon to see them doing so.

fcps.edu photo of Mourning Cloaks feeding on sap flows from yellow-bellied sapsucker damage.

One final word on this butterfly: they often make a loud click before flying away from a spot where they have been resting. The reason for this is unknown but remarkable..

Pamm Cooper

Many different tomato varieties to choose from!

I plant two tomato seeds in each cell of a 4-cell pack and will then thin to the strongest seedling. If the seeds are 2 or 3 years old, then 3 or 4 get planted in each cell. Tomato seeds last 3 to 4 years for me which is both good and bad. Hating to waste anything, I use up all the seeds from the varieties I have on hand before I order more seeds (unless the plants performed very poorly which was the case for a green cherry tomato I tried a couple of years ago). So I don’t get to try new varieties as quick as my heart desires, usually only 1 or 2 each year.

Two or 3 tomato seeds are started in each cell.

Some tomatoes I can’t live without and grow them every year. These include 3 cherry tomatoes – ‘Sungold’, ‘Sweet Million’ and ‘Yellow Jelly Bean’, all of which look and taste so sweet and summery in my salads, and my canning tomato, ‘Polish Linguisa’ which I make tomato and chili sauce from. These four I grow each year and they account for about 12 plants in total. So I have room in the garden for about eight or so more tomatoes and here is where the fun begins.

Sungold tomato picture from White Flower Farm

My 2013 selections include some I grew last year and have leftover seed for, and 3 new tomato varieties. First the repeats: ‘Djena Lee’s Golden Girl tomato came as a ‘Free Trial Offer’ from Totally Tomatoes (they lie, they have a plethora of peppers too!). I grew one plant last year and loved it so much that I am growing it again. It is an indeterminate heirloom grown by Djena Lee and given to the Reverend Morrow in 1929 who kept this variety going. For 10 consecutive years, it won first prize at the Chicago Fair and I can see (taste) why! It is an orangey-yellow fruit that starts maturing about 80 days after transplant. I love the tangy but sweet flavor and that it did well in my garden last year.

On the other extreme, a second heirloom, ‘Peron’, billed as the sprayless tomato because of its disease resistance, died on me somewhere around the middle of August – from which disease I am not positive. It was introduced in the 1950’s by some Gleckler seedsmen and was supposed to have 3 ½ inch globe shaped fruits, none of which I got to harvest. It is an open-pollinated variety ready in about 68 days from transplant. I will give it one more chance.

Late blight struck my plants again last year although it was towards the end of the season. ‘Yellow Jelly Bean’ was able to almost outgrow it with its vigorous, indeterminate habit and I was harvesting those yellow, oval tomatoes well into October. But I saw that Johnny’s Selected Seeds was offering ‘Defiant PHR F1’ which is supposed to have high resistance to late blight and moderate resistance to early blight along with 6 to 8 ounce globe-shaped fruit and I am giving it a try. ‘Defiant’ is a determinant hybrid that matures in about 70 days from transplant.

Another hybrid I am trying this year is ‘Ultimate Opener’. Every gardener is searching for that earliest ripening tomato (although they would have started them already if more diligent than me!) and according to Pinetree Seed catalog descriptions this tomato should ripen in 57 days from transplant. The medium-sized, 8 oz. tomatoes are produced on strong, disease resistant plants that reach about 6 feet in height.

Last, but not least, is a Polish heirloom from Russia called ‘Soldacki’. It is from Krakow but was brought to Cleveland around 1900. Pictures show lovely and flavorful, dark red, ribbed fruits and I can’t wait to sink my teeth into a sun-ripened fruit. Being indeterminate in nature, they will require staking or caging and fruit should mature in 75 to 80 days.

Soldacki tomato by Seed Savers

I’ll report at the end of the summer on garden successes and failures. If you have been thinking about starting tomatoes from seed, you still have time but get to it soon. Once you start shopping for tomato seed you will be amazed at the incredible selection you have to choose from. Go for it!

Good gardening to you!

Dawn