Strawberry-licious!

Not that I need more plants, but I was volunteering as a MA Master Gardener at the Wachusett Garden Club plant sale last weekend when a bunch of Mara des Bois everbearing strawberries caught my eye. Reportedly they have the highest flavor and fragrance of any everbearing variety and at $1 a plant at the end of their sale, they were a real bargain. I planted them a couple of nights ago and mulched them with some leftover fall leaves to keep the weeds down and berries off the ground.

Just planted strawberries, Mara des Bois. Photo by dmp2024

Strawberries are a very rewarding crop for home gardeners. They are quite easy to grow if cultural requirements are met, can be grown in small spaces and even in pots, they produce juicy, delectable fruits the same season as planted, and individual plants may give you up to a quart of berries.

Fresh or in cooked recipes, strawberries are yummy. Photo by dmp02024.

Native to both the northern and southern hemispheres, mentions of strawberries are found in BCE writings. Plants from North and South America were brought back to Europe by early explorers and in the 18^th century breeding for improved fruit began in France. ‘Hovey’ was developed in 1834 by a nurseryman in Cambridge, MA and is the ancestor of many modern American varieties. Commercial strawberry production increased with refrigeration, improved transportation, and consumer demand. In 2022 annual strawberry production in the United States totaled 1.39 million tons – that’s a lot of strawberry shortcakes!

There are 3 main types of strawberries to choose from, not including alpine strawberries. June-bearers, as their name implies, produce a heavy crop mostly in June although there are early, mid-season and late varieties to extend the harvest somewhat. Day neutrals produce fruit from about May through frost but in lesser quantities. Everbearering varieties planted this spring will start to produce flower buds when daylength exceeds 12 hours so expect a crop this fall. They will set buds for next spring’s crop in the fall. Both day neutral and everbearers slow down or stop fruit production when temperatures soar during the summer. Check out the UConn Home & Garden Education Center’s strawberry fact sheet for potential cultivars.

Most strawberries are self-fertile and pollinated by bees. Photo by dmp2023.

One thing to remember when planting strawberries is that the mother plants typically send out runners that root and form more plants. Some cultivars send out more than others. June-bearers are typically prolific runner producers. In general, the everbearers tend to be less so. Your planting system depends on how much room you’re willing to give them to roam.

Using the Hill system, plants are set 18 inches apart in rows that are 2 feet apart and all runners are cut off. Hedgerow plantings entail placing plants 24 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Only 2 runners are allowed to grow per plant, and these are set about 8 inches away from the mother plant on each side. Plants are planted 18 inches apart in the matted row system in rows 4 feet apart but runners are allowed to root in all directions as long as they are spaced at least 6 inches from other plants.

Good production depends on good site and cultural conditions. As with most fruit, strawberries need at least 8 hours of sunlight each day for bountiful harvests. Plants prefer a fertile, slightly acidic (pH from 6.0 – 6.5), well-drained but moisture-retentive soil. Plants are shallow rooted so affected by droughty or saturated conditions.

Raised beds offer early warmth and well-drained soil. Photo by dmp2015.

Production from everbearers seems to peter out after 3 or 4 years. You can try dividing and moving them to a new location, but purchasing a fresh bundle of plants and starting a new bed could also be an option.

June bearers with their many runners are typically renovated in August as beds become more crowded every 2 to 3 years. A couple of weeks after harvesting is finished, cut or mow (on high) back old leaves but be careful not to damage crowns. Remove any weeds, thin plants to about 12 inches apart, fertilize with about 1 pound of 10-10-10 or 2 pounds of 5-4-3 per 100 square feet and be sure to water if no rain is in the forecast. When fertilizing, brush off any prills that land on strawberry crowns.

June-bearing Honeye before renovation. Photo by dmp.

Honeye after renovation. Photo by dmp.

It’s true strawberries do have a few disease and insect problems to watch out for but my biggest problem has been chipmunks. I put in some more plants as last year, having just a small planting of strawberries, the chipmunks beat me to every single one!

Dawn P.  

 

Simply Seeding

February is a fantastic time for starting seedlings. The good news is that it’s easy and there’s plenty of information out there! We often get caught up in the excitement of new products and “life hacks” that seem to make our lives easier. But the simplicity of starting your own seeds can be part of the joy of growing plants yourself. 

Visual growing charts and long texts on cultural conditions are great resources if you’re really dedicated to utilizing your space to its maximum efficiency and growing the perfect produce. However, sometimes these charts can get gardeners in a bind. They often display broad generalizations that can give us a false sense of garden timing. As cultivars and heirloom seed markets have changed and developed over time, we can find seeds that mature on cycles that differ from those used to create growing guides and charts.  Varieties of our garden favorites may not thrive in the parameters set by reference material. Additionally, with the recent USDA hardiness zone map shifts, those charts may not reflect current truths that the home gardener has been experiencing in their own microclimates.  

Instead, build your own seed schedule by reading the packets for the varieties that you have specifically selected to put in your garden. Sort your seeds based on the number of weeks needed before planting outside. Once sorted, find your last estimated frost date (there are many resources available online for this information) and count backwards from that date. Give yourself a little bit of wiggle room for mishaps, and there you have it! You’ve created your own schedule. For the super organized gardener, you can then add those planting target dates to a calendar or journal. Those of us who garden with a little more spontaneity may just stack your newly sorted seed packets in order and take the right timed ones off the stack each week.  

I often save the seed packets for the season. This helps if/when I need to troubleshoot garden situations. When seeds don’t seem to be germinating, the packet usually tells me I have to wait a few more days. If I know the specific variety and look up the growing conditions, I may find that my soil temperature or water conditions weren’t correct. Maybe they were supposed to be taller and they just aren’t growing – turning to the packet can remind me that they were supposed to be short all along! I can assess if the variety I’m growing is particularly susceptible to a pest or disease, and find solutions much quicker when I know specific details. It also helps when I’m preparing my growing list for the next year.  

Photo by H. Zidack

Another thing that can complicate the simplicity of starting your own seed is that we all often grow way more than we need. This can be from the excitement of seeding, the seeds being so small we can’t truly separate them, or an urge to plant a few extra “just in case.” This is something that most of us do – and it’s okay! Germination rates are rarely 100% and sometimes, errors happen where you will be glad you planted those few extra. Remedy your seedling hoarding by arranging your planting schedules with friends and family. As an example, I grow the Tomatoes, while a friend of ours seeds herbs. By over planting, we have more than enough to trade once the growing season gets here! This helps us to reduce waste, and perfect our methods in growing what we’re good at growing.  

Think back: when your elementary school class planted beans (or peas, or tomatoes) for the first time, do you remember using complicated light timers, heat mats, and expensive plastic trays with a cover on top? Probably not. Most teachers will get some potting soil, put it in a cup/egg carton/ziploc bag, have the students make a hole with their finger, drop the seed and cover it and make sure someone remembers to water it every day. Remember those same principles. Seedlings truly only need water, light and humidity for a great start. Keep it simple, use what you have, and know how to work with your resources for a successful start, no matter what seeds you sow! 

Heather Zidack
UConn Home & Garden Education Center